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This site not work anymore .I have a new site and you can go there visit me. I dont go put more post here anymore ... If you like this blog go there .. I will be there for you ... Olá meus queridos amigos ... agora tenho um novo blog Este site nao funcionará mais , tive alguns problemas. Agora tenho um novo endereco de blog. Nao irei mais colocar post neste blog .. Todas as atualizacoes e novidades estarao no outro endereco .. Acessem... estarei lá pra vcssss Se vcs gostaram desse blog irao amar o outro .. mais atualizado e lindo ... Vamos láaaa .... visitem-me lá .. Beijinhos Lili

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sexta-feira, 12 de fevereiro de 2010

Rhubarb recipes: pretty in pink


Diana Henry is seduced by the colour and flavour of forced rhubarb .

By Diana Henry
Published: 7:00AM GMT 12 Feb 2010
Rose-scented panna cotta with rhubarb compote; Freeform rhubarb tart Photo: PETER CASSIDY

When I was a kid I used to be smacked for stealing rhubarb. Not out of someone else’s garden, you understand, but from the pie my mum was making. You can’t blame me for sneaking the odd cube while it was waiting for its pastry lid. That vivid pink – as attractive as seaside rock to a child – looked irresistible with its thick dusting of caster sugar. I was reminded of this when I was cooking the tart below. 'Can you eat raw rhubarb with sugar?’ asked nine-year-old Celia, who was helping. I hadn’t done it for years but was glad to relive the slight shudder. I noticed, travelling in Scandinavia, that they are very keen on the rhubarb shudder. There children dip stalks in sugar and revel in each sweet-sour bite .

How lovely that we, in our cool northern climes, have a fruit that is truly ours. Forget lemons and oranges and all those fruits that need sunshine, rhubarb can compete in terms of beauty and tartness, and its cultivation actually depends on coldness. The pink rhubarb in the shops now is forced, grown under cloches or in dark sheds where the stalks push themselves up through the soil as they try to reach the light. They thrive in the cold, so they should have been happy this year, unfurling their leaves into a world covered in snow.

Forced rhubarb is more subtle in flavour and has a much finer texture than the outdoor rhubarb that is available from April, and it’s a crime to cook it in a way that banishes its bright colour. Cook it gently, and look for recipes that help keep its good looks. Scandinavia and Russia are good hunting grounds for ideas. The Swedes make lovely pale pink juice, or saft, from rhubarb; the Danes eat it with pork; and in Russia it’s served with duck, a very sensible pairing. Chutneys and jams I leave until later in the year, but the pickled rhubarb below is cooked for a short time so its pinkness is undiminished.

When it comes to sweet dishes I am always looking for new ideas; forced rhubarb’s season is short and I want to make the most of it. A trifle made with ginger cake is gorgeous, ditto a big pavlova covered in the pulp from several passion fruit. Spoon poached rhubarb on to a Middle Eastern rice pudding scented with rosewater and scattered with pistachios. Or try your hand at rhubarb vodka by steeping chunks in vodka and sugar. Not only will it lift your spirits every time you look at it, you’ll feel like a character out of Tolstoy as you make it.

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